Free Tiny Stardust Cloud Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

 

Introduction

Welcome back to my cozy corner! It's Patricia, always delighted to spend time with yarn and fellow creators. There's something utterly captivating about looking up at the vastness of space, isn't there? That feeling of wonder, of gentle possibility... it's the heart of my design for the Tiny Stardust Cloud Bunny! This isn't just any amigurumi bunny; it's a friend who looks as if they've drifted down from the softest, most sparkling parts of a distant nebula.

This pattern is perfect whether you're looking for a quick, heartwarming project for yourself or a unique, handmade gift. If you're comfortable with the fundamental amigurumi techniques – working in the round, single crochet, increases, and decreases – you'll find this pattern accessible and deeply satisfying. It falls into the Easy Intermediate skill level, offering a lovely balance between straightforward construction and delightful details. You can realistically whip one of these little darlings up in just a few hours. The special cloud-like ears and the subtle hint of stardust are the charming features that make this bunny truly unforgettable and, dare I say, highly shareable! Get ready to crochet a little piece of the cosmos right into your hands.

This pattern is an original design by Patricia Poltera, brought to you by trendydecos.com.

Materials

Gather your materials, and let's conjure up some stardust!

• Yarn A (Cloud Color): Approximately 50-60 yards (45-55 meters) of Worsted Weight or DK Weight yarn held double. Using two strands creates a lovely density and slight fluffiness, or you can opt for a single strand of a naturally fuzzy yarn like chenille or a brushed acrylic.
  • Suggested types: A soft acrylic or cotton blend in white, cream, pale blue, soft lavender, or blush pink. Specific examples include Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (held double), Bernat Velvet, or Hobbii Baby Snuggle.
• Yarn B (Ear/Tail Accent - Optional Sparkle): Approximately 10-15 yards (9-14 meters) of the same weight yarn in a pastel color that complements Yarn A, or a very fine metallic/glitter yarn or thread to be held alongside Yarn A only for the ears and tail. This adds the "stardust" shimmer.
  • Suggested types: A slightly darker or lighter pastel shade than Yarn A, a fine gold or silver metallic embroidery floss, or a thin sparkle yarn designed for adding shimmer.
• Crochet Hook: Choose a hook size that achieves a tight fabric with your chosen yarn(s) to prevent stuffing from showing. I found a 3.75 mm (US F/5) hook worked well with Worsted held double. If using a bulkier Chenille, a 4.0mm or 4.5mm might be better. Always check your tension!
• Safety Eyes: Two 6mm or 8mm safety eyes. Select a size that gives your bunny the sweet, innocent look you desire.
• Stuffing: High-quality polyester fiberfill. You'll need a small amount, likely between 1-2 oz (about 30-60 grams).
• Stitch Marker: Essential for keeping track of your rounds when working in a continuous spiral.
• Yarn Needle: A blunt-tipped needle for weaving in ends and assembling the pieces.
• Scissors
• Optional: A small amount of pink embroidery floss or very thin pink yarn for embroidering cheeks and/or a nose (as an alternative to safety eyes for child safety).

Skill Level & Techniques

• Difficulty: Easy Intermediate
• Required Techniques:
  • Magic Ring (MR): The standard way to start amigurumi in the round.
  • Single Crochet (sc): The basic stitch used throughout.
  • Increase (inc): Making two single crochet stitches in one stitch to add stitches.
  • Decrease (dec): Working two single crochet stitches together to reduce stitches. I strongly recommend the invisible decrease for a neater finish.
  • Slip Stitch (sl st): Used for joining or finishing off.
  • Working in Continuous Rounds: Crocheting in a spiral without joining rounds.
  • Fasten Off: Securing your yarn end.
  • Stuffing: Filling the amigurumi firmly and evenly.
  • Sewing Amigurumi Parts: Attaching the finished components neatly and securely.
  • (Optional) Basic Embroidery: For facial features.
• Estimated Time Commitment: 2-4 hours

Abbreviations & Terms

This pattern follows standard US crochet terminology.

• MR: Magic Ring
• ch: chain
• st(s): stitch(es)
• sc: single crochet
• inc: increase (work 2 sc in one st)
• dec: single crochet 2 together (invisible decrease recommended)
• sl st: slip stitch
• BLO: Back Loop Only
• FLO: Front Loop Only
• (): Stitch count at the end of the round/row
• *** *:* Repeat instructions within the asterisks the specified number of times
• [ ] xN: Repeat instructions within brackets N number of times

Pattern Instructions

Work all parts in continuous rounds unless otherwise indicated. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Head (in Yarn A)

Begin with a Magic Ring.Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6) Round 2: inc in each st around. (12) Round 3: sc, inc around. (18) Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24) Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30) Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. (36) Rounds 7-12: sc in each st around. (36) (6 rounds total)

Insert safety eyes between Rounds 10 and 11, leaving approximately 7-8 stitches visible between them on the front.

Round 13: 4 sc, dec around. (30) Round 14: 3 sc, dec around. (24) Round 15: 2 sc, dec around. (18)

Begin stuffing the head firmly with polyester fiberfill, shaping as you stuff.

Round 16: sc, dec around. (12)

Finish stuffing the head firmly, ensuring a smooth, even shape.

Round 17: dec around. (6) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread the tail through the front loop of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close the hole. Secure the end.

Body (in Yarn A)

Begin with a Magic Ring.Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6) Round 2: inc in each st around. (12) Round 3: sc, inc around. (18) Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. (24) Rounds 5-9: sc in each st around. (24) (5 rounds total)Round 10: 2 sc, dec around. (18) Round 11: sc in each st around. (18)

Add a small amount of stuffing to the body.

Round 12: sc, dec around. (12)

Finish stuffing the body, ensuring it is firm enough to support the head but not overly hard.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

Ears (Make 2) (in Yarn A, holding Yarn B if using sparkle accent)

These are worked flat in rows, and then two pieces are joined to create the puffy cloud shape.

Make 4 flat "cloud" pieces: Chain 5.Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (4) Row 2: sc in first st, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (6) Row 3: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (6) Row 4: sc in first st, dec, dec, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (4) Row 5: dec, dec. (2) Fasten off, leaving a short tail on two of the four pieces (these will be the back pieces). Leave a long tail on the remaining two pieces for sewing to the head (these will be the front pieces).

Join the Cloud Pieces: Take one front piece (long tail) and one back piece (short tail). Place them together with wrong sides facing. Join Yarn A (or Yarn A + Yarn B for sparkle border) with a sl st through both layers at one bottom corner. Sc evenly around the edge through both layers to join the two pieces and create a border. As you crochet around, insert a very small amount of fiberfill just before you crochet the last few stitches, to give the ear a gentle puffy shape. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off, weaving in the short tail from the back piece. The long tail from the front piece will be used for attaching the ear to the head.

Arms (Make 2) (in Yarn A)

Begin with a Magic Ring.Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6) Rounds 2-5: sc in each st around. (6) (4 rounds total)

Add a tiny pinch of stuffing to the end of the arm, keeping the top opening unstuffed.

Round 6: [dec] 3 times. (3) Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Use the tail to sew the small opening shut.

Legs (Make 2) (in Yarn A)

Begin with a Magic Ring.Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6) Round 2: inc in each st around. (12) Rounds 3-4: sc in each st around. (12) (2 rounds total)Round 5: dec 3 times, sc in next 6 sts. (9)

Add stuffing, focusing on the foot area.

Round 6: sc in each st around. (9) Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Add a little more stuffing if needed, then flatten the opening and sew it closed using the tail.

Tail (in Yarn A, holding Yarn B if using sparkle accent)

Begin with a Magic Ring.Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6) Round 2: inc in each st around. (12) Round 3: sc in each st around. (12)

Add a small amount of stuffing to make it puffy.

Round 4: dec around. (6) Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing. Thread the tail through the front loop of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close. Secure the end.

Assembly

Now, let's bring our little stardust friend to life by assembling the pieces!

1. Attach the Head to the Body: Thread the long tail from the body onto your yarn needle. Position the body directly below the head, aligning the centers. Sew the body to the head using a whip stitch or mattress stitch, going through a stitch on the body and then a corresponding stitch on the head. Sew all the way around, pulling tight enough to secure but not distort. Weave in the yarn end securely.
2. Attach the Legs: Pin the legs to the bottom of the body, positioned on either side towards the front, where the body starts to curve inward (approximately around Round 11 of the body). Ensure they are evenly spaced and facing forward. Sew securely in place using the tails on the legs. Weave in ends.
3. Attach the Arms: Pin the arms to the sides of the body, just below the head/body seam (around Round 1 of the body, if counting down). They should be symmetrical. Sew firmly using the tails left on the arms. Weave in ends.
4. Attach the Ears: Pin the cloud ears to the top of the head. Play with the positioning – slightly forward from the center, closer together or further apart – until you find the look you love. I like placing mine slightly forward, around Rounds 3-5 of the head (counting down). Sew securely in place using the long tails from the ears, ensuring they stand or droop charmingly. Weave in ends.
5. Attach the Tail: Sew the tail to the back of the body, centered at the bottom. Stitch it firmly in place using the tail and weave in the end.

Finishing Touches

These last steps add character and that special sparkle!

1. Nose: Using black or dark pink embroidery floss, embroider a small nose centered just below the safety eyes. A simple vertical line or a tiny 'V' shape works well.
2. Cheeks: Using a bit of pink embroidery floss or yarn, or a touch of fabric blush/chalk pastel, add a small pink patch or line below each eye for rosy cheeks.
3. Stardust Embellishment: If you didn't hold a sparkle yarn for the ears and tail, or if you want extra shimmer, thread a needle with fine metallic embroidery thread or thin sparkle yarn. Make a few random small stitches or French knots scattered across the body, arms, and legs to represent individual pieces of stardust. Be subtle – a few well-placed sparkles are more effective than a lot.

Technical Tips

• Achieving Tight Tension: The goal in amigurumi is to create a dense fabric that prevents stuffing from being visible. If you see gaps, your tension is too loose, or your hook is too large for your yarn. Try crocheting more tightly or using a smaller hook.
• The Invisible Decrease: Master this technique! It makes your decreases almost disappear, resulting in a smoother surface on your amigurumi. There are many great video tutorials online if you're new to it.
• Stuffing Techniques: Stuff your pieces gradually, adding small clumps of fiberfill and distributing them evenly. Use the back of your hook or a chopstick to push stuffing into tight areas like limbs. Stuff firmly enough for the piece to hold its shape, but not so much that the seams strain or bulge.
• Sewing Limbs Neatly: For attaching arms and legs, sewing through the flattened top of the limb and then into the body works well. Try to sew through the body multiple times for each limb to ensure it's secure and doesn't loosen over time.
• Getting the Ears Just Right: The amount of stuffing in the ears is key to their 'cloud' shape. Use just enough to give them slight dimension and puffiness without making them firm balls. Play with the placement on the head before sewing to find the most charming look.
• Customization is Encouraged! Don't be afraid to experiment with colors! A "Midnight Storm" bunny in dark blues and greys with silver sparkle, or a "Sunset" bunny in oranges and pinks with gold sparkle would be just as lovely.

Conclusion & Care Instructions

And there you have it – your very own Tiny Stardust Cloud Bunny! Your finished creation should measure approximately 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm) from the bottom of its feet to the top of its head (excluding the ears). Please note that the exact size can vary depending on your chosen yarn, hook size, and individual tension.

To keep your starry friend looking its best, I recommend hand washing gently in cool water using a mild detergent. Avoid wringing or twisting. Carefully squeeze out excess water and reshape the bunny while it's damp. Allow it to air dry completely. Machine washing or drying is not recommended as it can damage the shape and texture.

Place your Stardust Cloud Bunny on a shelf, brighten your workspace, or give it as a cherished handmade gift. No matter where it goes, I hope it brings a touch of magic and sweetness to its home!

Happy Crocheting!

With warm stitches, Patricia Poltera www.trendydecos.com

Frequently Asked Questions

Got questions while making your Stardust Cloud Bunny? Here are some answers to common queries:

Q: The yarn I want to use isn't Worsted or DK. How do I adjust? A: You can use almost any yarn weight! If you use a thinner yarn (like Fingering or Sport), your bunny will be smaller. If you use a thicker yarn (like Bulky or Super Bulky), your bunny will be larger. You'll also need to adjust your hook size accordingly to maintain tight tension. The stitch counts in the pattern remain the same, but the finished size will differ.

Q: My stitches are uneven, and my circle isn't flat. What am I doing wrong? A: Uneven stitches often come down to inconsistent tension. Try to maintain the same tightness on your yarn and hook throughout the round. If your circle isn't flat and is cupping, you might be increasing too slowly (or your tension is too tight). If it's ruffled, you might be increasing too quickly (or your tension is too loose). Double-check your stitch counts per round against the pattern.

Q: The invisible decrease feels difficult. Can I just sc2tog? A: You can, but the standard sc2tog creates a more visible bump or line on your fabric. The invisible decrease is worth practicing as it makes your finished amigurumi look much smoother and more professional. There are many excellent video tutorials online that can help you master it!

Q: How do I make sure the head is centered nicely on the body? A: Before you start sewing, use pins to secure the head to the body in a few spots, checking from all angles to ensure it looks centered and balanced. Once you're happy with the placement, then begin sewing around the pinned edge.

Q: My arms and legs feel a bit floppy. How can I make them firmer? A: Ensure you added a small amount of stuffing to the ends of the arms and in the feet of the legs. Also, when sewing them onto the body, make several strong stitches through both the limb and the body core to secure them firmly. Don't rely on just a few stitches.

Q: I want to add sparkle, but I don't have metallic thread. Any other ideas? A: Yes! You can use a sparkly embroidery floss, a thin strand pulled from a sequined yarn, or even sew on tiny seed beads (use extreme caution if the toy is for a child, as beads can be a choking hazard). A subtle glitter fabric paint or glue dabbed on sparingly after the piece is finished and dried completely can also work, but test it on a swatch first.

Q: Is this pattern safe for babies? A: While the finished toy is soft, safety eyes are a choking hazard for infants and young children. If making this for a baby or toddler, do not use safety eyes. Instead, embroider the eyes and nose securely with embroidery floss or yarn. Ensure all parts are sewn on very tightly.

Q: How long should I leave the tail for sewing? A: A good rule of thumb is to leave a tail about 3-4 times the circumference of the opening you need to sew closed or attach. This gives you plenty of yarn to work with without running out mid-sewing.

Q: Can I give the bunny a different facial expression? A: Absolutely! Amigurumi faces are incredibly versatile. You could embroider sleepy eyes (simple lines), open eyes with pupils, or add eyebrows for expression. Play around with facial features – it's the best way to give your bunny a unique personality!

Q: My finished bunny looks smaller than the stated size. Why? A: This is usually due to tighter tension or using a slightly smaller hook or thinner yarn than recommended. Amigurumi size is highly dependent on these factors. As long as the proportions look correct based on the pattern's stitch counts, your bunny is perfect, just on the smaller side!

Copyright Notice

© Patricia Poltera - trendydecos.com. This pattern is copyrighted and intended for personal use only. Please do not reproduce, distribute, or sell this pattern, whether in digital or physical form, in whole or in part. You are welcome to sell items made from this pattern, but please provide credit to Patricia Poltera of trendydecos.com as the designer. Your respect for my work is greatly appreciated!