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An Introduction from Patricia to Your Darling Hattie the Hippo
Hello, lovely crocheters! It's Patricia Poltera, and I'm just so delighted to share this Hattie the Hippo pattern with you all, completely free. Hippos have a special place in my heart – they're just so wonderfully cuddly and full of character, and Hattie is no exception! This pattern is designed to bring you joy from the first stitch to the very last, resulting in an adorable friend ready for endless snuggles. It's your wonderful enthusiasm for handmade creations, and the ways you choose to support my work, that keep my crochet hooks merrily clicking away, allowing me to share these detailed patterns. So, thank you, from the bottom of my heart!
Materials You'll Need for Hattie the Hippo
Gathering your materials is half the fun, isn't it? For Hattie, we'll be working with a few lovely shades that capture her sweet personality.
Yarn
I recommend a smooth, DK (light worsted) weight acrylic or cotton yarn for this project. Acrylic is wonderfully soft and budget-friendly, while cotton offers beautiful stitch definition and a lovely drape.
- Main Color: Approx. 100g Lavender (for Head, Body, Snout, Ears, Arms, Legs)
- Overalls Color: Approx. 50g Dark Purple
- Strap/Pocket Color: Approx. 20g Bright Orange
- Arm Cuff Color: Small amount of Light Blue
- Accent Colors: Small amounts of Pink (for buttons), Brown (for nostrils), and Yellow (for flower center)
Hooks & Notions
Having the right tools makes all the difference!
The Absolute Essentials
- Crochet Hook: A 2.5mm or 3.0mm hook (or the size that gives you a tight, even fabric with no gaps for stuffing to show through).
- Safety Eyes: Two 6mm or 8mm black safety eyes (depending on your preference for expressiveness!).
- Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill (hypoallergenic is always a good choice).
- Yarn Needle: A blunt-tipped needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
- Scissors: For snipping yarn.
- Stitch Marker: Essential for working in continuous rounds!
My 'Game Changer' Recommendations (Optional, but oh-so-helpful!)
- Pins: Ball-head pins are invaluable for temporarily positioning pieces before sewing, ensuring perfect alignment.
- Fabric Glue: A tiny dab can secure safety eye backs if you want extra reassurance, though it’s not strictly necessary.
- Chopstick or Stuffing Tool: For pushing stuffing into small areas like limbs, ensuring a firm, even fill.
Skills Required & Techniques Demystified for Hattie the Hippo
Don't fret if some of these terms are new to you! Amigurumi is all about building on foundational stitches. Hattie is a wonderful project to hone these skills.
- Magic Ring (MR): This creates a tight starting point for your amigurumi pieces, preventing a hole in the center. It's truly magical!
- Single Crochet (sc): The most common stitch in amigurumi, forming a dense fabric.
- Increase (inc): Working two single crochet stitches into one stitch from the previous round. This expands your piece.
- Decrease (dec): Combining two stitches into one to reduce the stitch count. I prefer the "invisible decrease" (inv dec) as it leaves a much neater finish.
- Slip Stitch (sl st): Used to join rounds or finish off pieces neatly.
- Chain (ch): A basic foundation stitch, used here for starting the overalls.
- Working in Continuous Rounds: Most amigurumi is worked in a spiral, meaning you don't join rounds with a slip stitch unless specified. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your first stitch in each round!
- Fasten Off (FO): Cutting your yarn and pulling the tail through the last loop to secure your work.
A Note on Photos & Your Unique Hattie the Hippo
You know, handmade items always have their own unique charm, don't they? While my patterns are meticulously written, the tension of your stitches, the specific yarn you choose, and even how firmly you stuff can lead to subtle variations in your finished Hattie. Think of it as your unique artistic touch! Don't be afraid if your Hattie isn't an exact clone of the one in the picture – that's part of the beauty of crochet.
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The Hattie the Hippo Amigurumi Pattern
Oh, I just know you’re going to love stitching up this darling Hattie the Hippo amigurumi! This pattern is written using US crochet terminology. If you enjoy this free pattern, do pop over to Patricia Poltera’s Amigurumi Pattern Parlour for more exclusive PDF patterns and delightful designs. Now, let’s get to crocheting!
Abbreviations:
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- inc: increase (2 sc in one stitch)
- dec: decrease (sc2tog, I recommend invisible decrease)
- sl st: slip stitch
- MR: magic ring
- FO: fasten off
- (...) x N: repeat instructions in parentheses N times
- [...]: total number of stitches in the round/row
Gauge: Not critical for amigurumi, but ensure your stitches are tight enough so stuffing doesn't show through.
Head (Lavender Yarn)
Round 1: Start with MR, 6 sc into ring [6]
Round 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]
Round
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 [36]
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]
Round 8-15: sc in each stitch around (8 rounds) [42] Insert safety eyes between Rnd 11 and 12, about 6-7 stitches apart.
Round 16: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]
Round 17: (4 sc, dec) x 6 [30]
Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x 6 [24] Start stuffing the head firmly, shaping as you go.
Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x 6 [18]
Round 20: (sc, dec) x 6 [12]
Round 21: (dec) x 6 [6]
FO, leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the front loop of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in end.
Ears (Make 2, Lavender Yarn)
Round 1: Start with MR, 6 sc into ring [6]
Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3 [9]
Round 3: sc in each stitch around [9] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the ear.
Snout (Lighter Lavender Yarn)
Round 1: Start with MR, 6 sc into ring [6]
Round 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Round 4: sc in each stitch around [18]
Round 5: (4 sc, dec) x 3 [15] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the snout. Embroider nostrils with brown yarn on Rnd 3-4, about 3 stitches apart.
Body (Lavender Yarn)
Round 1: Start with MR, 6 sc into ring [6]
Round 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 [36]
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]
Round 8-15: sc in each stitch around (8 rounds) [42]
Round 16: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]
Round 17: sc in each stitch around [36]
Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x 6 [30] Start stuffing the body firmly, shaping as you go.
Round 19: sc in each stitch around [30]
Round 20: (3 sc, dec) x 6 [24]
Round 21: (2 sc, dec) x 6 [18]
Round 22: (sc, dec) x 6 [12]
Round 23: (dec) x 6 [6]
FO, leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the front loop of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in end.
Arms (Make 2, Lavender Yarn)
Round 1: Start with MR, 6 sc into ring [6]
Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3 [9]
Round 3-6: sc in each stitch around (4 rounds) [9] Change to Light Blue yarn.
Round 7-8: sc in each stitch around (2 rounds) [9] Lightly stuff the arm. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Legs (Make 2, Lavender Yarn)
Round 1: Start with MR, 6 sc into ring [6]
Round 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Round 4-7: sc in each stitch around (4 rounds) [18]
Round 8: (sc, dec) x 6 [12]
Round 9: (dec) x 6 [6] FO, leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly. Weave the tail through the front loop of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in end.
Overalls (Dark Purple Yarn)
Work in rows for the initial body, then join to work in rounds.
Leg 1: Row 1: Ch 12, join with sl st to form a ring. Sc in each ch around. [12]
Row 2-6: sc in each stitch around (5 rounds) [12] FO, weave in end.
Leg 2: Row 1: Ch 12, join with sl st to form a ring. Sc in each ch around. [12]
Row 2-6: sc in each stitch around (5 rounds) [12] Do not FO.
Joining Legs & Body:
Row 7: Ch 2, sc in first stitch of Leg 1. Sc in remaining 11 stitches of Leg 1. Sc in 2 chs. Sc in 12 stitches of Leg 2. Sc in remaining 2 chs. [28]
Row 8-14: sc in each stitch around (7 rounds) [28]
Row 15: (5 sc, dec) x 4 [24]
Row 16: sc in each stitch around [24]
Row 17: (4 sc, dec) x 4 [20]
Row 18-19: sc in each stitch around (2 rounds) [20] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body.
Overalls Straps (Make 2, Orange Yarn)
Ch 20. FO.
Overalls Pocket (Orange Yarn)
Row 1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. [4]
Row 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch across. [4] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Flower (Orange and Yellow Yarn)
Using orange yarn: Round 1: Start with MR, (ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) x 5 petals into ring. [5 petals] FO orange yarn. Using yellow yarn: Embroider a small knot or a couple of stitches in the center of the flower to represent the yellow center.
Assembly Instructions for Your Hattie the Hippo
Now comes the magic part – bringing all of Hattie's pieces together! Take your time, use pins, and don't be afraid to adjust until everything looks just right.
- Attach the Snout: Pin the snout to the center of the head, directly below the eyes. Sew securely using a whip stitch.
- Attach the Ears: Fold the ears flat. Pin them to the top sides of the head, slightly to the front, between Rnd 2 and 4 of the head. Sew securely.
- Attach the Flower: Sew the small orange and yellow flower to the top of Hattie's head, slightly to one side.
- Attach the Body: The head and body openings should roughly match. Pin the head to the body, ensuring the head is centered and the face is looking forward. Sew securely around the opening. Use the tail from either the head or body to close the seam.
- Attach the Arms: Pin the arms to the sides of the body, just below the neck seam (around Rnd 17-18 of the body), with the light blue cuff facing forward. Sew securely.
- Attach the Legs: Pin the legs to the bottom of the body, evenly spaced to allow Hattie to stand. Sew securely.
- Attach the Overalls: Slip Hattie's legs through the overall leg holes. Pull the overalls up over her body. Pin the top edge of the overalls to Hattie's body, just below her armpits. Use a running stitch or whip stitch to secure the overalls to her body.
- Attach the Overall Straps: Sew one end of each orange strap to the front top corners of the overalls. Cross the straps in the back (or keep them straight if you prefer!) and sew the other ends to the top back edge of the overalls. Sew small pink "buttons" to the front where the straps attach.
- Attach the Pocket: Sew the orange pocket to the front of the overalls, centered, just below the chest area.
- Final Stuffing Check: Give Hattie a gentle squeeze all over. If you find any soft spots, gently add more fiberfill until she feels wonderfully firm and huggable. Weave in any remaining loose ends.
Tips & Tricks for Your Hattie the Hippo
Crocheting amigurumi is a journey, and I've picked up a few helpful pointers along the way that I love to share!
Troubleshooting Common Crochet Challenges
- Stuffing Showing Through? This means your tension might be a little loose. Try going down a hook size, or consciously pulling your stitches tighter.
- Wobbly Head? To ensure a firm neck, stuff the neck area very firmly before closing the head, and ensure the head is sewn very tightly to the body. You can also add a small piece of pipe cleaner or a plastic safety joint inside for extra stability (though supervise if giving to young children!).
- Counting Woes? A stitch marker at the beginning of each round is truly your best friend. Move it up after each completed round.
Customization Corner
- Yarn Choices: Feel free to experiment with different yarn weights! A thicker yarn will make a larger Hattie (and you'll need a larger hook), while thinner yarn will make a smaller one. Just ensure your hook size matches your yarn.
- Color Palette: Imagine Hattie in shades of blue, green, or even striped overalls! Let your creativity flow.
- Accessories: How about a tiny crocheted bow tie, a little flower crown, or even a small backpack?
Gifting Your Handmade Masterpiece
- Personal Touch: Add a small, handwritten tag with care instructions.
- Presentation: Place Hattie in a cute little gift box or wrap her in tissue paper with a ribbon.
- Safety First: If gifting to a baby or very young child, consider embroidering the eyes and nostrils instead of using safety eyes and ensure all parts are very securely sewn.
Frequently Asked Pattern & Finishing Questions for Hattie the Hippo
Sometimes a little clarification makes all the difference, my dear!
Q: My Hattie isn't standing up straight, what can I do? A: This usually means the legs aren't stuffed firmly enough, or they aren't positioned evenly when sewn on. Ensure you've packed plenty of stuffing into the legs and foot area, and pin them carefully to the body, checking balance before sewing.
Q: Can I use super bulky yarn for this pattern? A: Absolutely! Just be aware that Hattie will turn out significantly larger, and you'll need a much larger hook size (check your yarn label for recommendations). The yardage required will also increase.
Q: How do I make the invisible decrease (inv dec)? A: Insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch, then immediately into the front loop of the next stitch (you should have 3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through both front loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops. It creates a much neater decrease!
A Final Word & Caring for Your Adorable Hattie the Hippo
What a joy it is to see Hattie come to life through your hands! Seeing these little characters come to life through your hands is the greatest reward. This pattern is crafted with so much love and attention to detail, and I truly hope it brings you immense satisfaction and a delightful new friend. Remember, your continued engagement and support, whether it's sharing your makes or visiting my Pattern Parlour, make it possible for me to keep these detailed patterns freely available for our wonderful crochet community. Happy stitching, and may Hattie bring a smile to your face every single day!
To keep your Hattie looking her best, I recommend spot cleaning with a damp cloth and mild soap. For a deeper clean, hand wash gently in cool water with a mild detergent, squeeze out excess water in a towel, and let her air dry completely. Avoid machine washing or drying to maintain her shape and stitches.