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Strawberry Sweetheart Doll Amigurumi Pattern: A Delightful Free Crochet Guide by Patricia Poltera

An Introduction from Patricia to Your Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

Oh, my dear friends, welcome! It's Patricia Poltera here, and I'm just so delighted to share this Strawberry Sweetheart Doll pattern with you all, completely free! There’s something truly magical about bringing a beloved character to life with yarn and hook, isn’t there? This little doll, inspired by classic charm, is designed to bring a burst of cheer and a touch of nostalgic sweetness to your home or as a heartfelt gift. Each stitch is a step towards creating a cuddly companion, and I’ve poured all my passion for fiber arts into ensuring every detail is just right for you. It's your wonderful enthusiasm for crafting, your kind words, and the ways you choose to support my work through sharing and visiting my little Pattern Parlour that keep my crochet hooks merrily clicking away, allowing me to share these detailed patterns. So, truly, thank you!

Materials You'll Need for Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

Gathering your materials is like preparing your palette before painting – it’s part of the creative joy! For our Strawberry Sweetheart Doll, we'll want to focus on yarns that give a lovely, clean stitch definition, which is perfect for amigurumi.

Yarn Essentials (DK or Light Worsted Weight recommended)

  • Peach/Skin Tone: For the head, arms, and legs. About 50g.
  • Bright Red: For the dress, hair, and shoes. About 80g.
  • White: For the apron, hat bobbles, and sock stripes. About 30g.
  • Light Pink: For the hat. About 40g.
  • Leaf Green: For the strawberry tops, apron hearts, and sock stripes. About 20g.
  • Small amounts of Dark Brown or Reddish Brown: For shoe soles.
  • Small amount of Black embroidery floss: For eyes and mouth.
  • Small amount of Pink embroidery floss: For cheek blush.

Hooks & Notions

  • Crochet Hook: 2.0mm or 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2). The goal is a tight fabric with no gaps for stuffing to show through. If you typically crochet loosely, go down a hook size.
  • Fiberfill Stuffing: High-quality, washable polyester fiberfill.
  • Tapestry Needle: For weaving in ends and assembly.
  • Stitch Markers: Locking stitch markers are a lifesaver for working in the round.
  • Scissors: Sharp ones, of course!
  • Pins: For holding pieces in place during assembly.

My 'Game Changer' Recommendations (Optional, but oh-so-helpful!)

  • Embroidery Hoop (small): If you're new to embroidering faces, a small hoop can help keep your fabric taut for neater stitches. It makes a surprising difference!
  • Tweezers or Hemostat: Absolutely brilliant for precise stuffing, especially in tiny limbs. You'll thank me later!
  • Row Counter: Keeps you from losing your place, especially on larger pieces. My memory isn't what it used to be after a long day of crocheting!
  • Fabric Glue or Fray Check: For securing yarn ends on embroidered details if you're worried about them coming undone, though a good knot usually suffices.

Skills Required & Techniques Demystified for Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

Don’t worry if some of these sound new – I'll explain them simply! The beauty of amigurumi is that it builds on a few core stitches.

  • Magic Ring (MR): The perfect way to start a piece in the round, creating a tight, closed center. No holes!
  • Single Crochet (SC): Your bread and butter stitch. It’s compact and creates a dense fabric, ideal for stuffing.
  • Increase (Inc): Crocheting two single crochets into one stitch to expand your work.
  • Decrease (Dec) / Invisible Decrease (Inv Dec): Crocheting two stitches together to shrink your work. The invisible decrease is my go-to for amigurumi; it creates a much neater, less bumpy decrease. I highly recommend learning this one!
  • Slip Stitch (SL ST): Used to join rounds or finish off.
  • Fasten Off (FO): Cutting your yarn and pulling it through the last loop to secure your work.
  • Working in Continuous Rounds: Most amigurumi is worked this way, meaning you don't join with a slip stitch at the end of each round unless specified. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your first stitch in each round.
  • Color Changes: Simply introduce your new color on the last yarn over of the stitch before your color change. Weave in those ends tightly!
  • Basic Embroidery: For facial features and details, this is just using a tapestry needle and yarn/floss to create lines and shapes.

A Note on Photos & Your Unique Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

Now, you'll see a beautiful example of our Strawberry Sweetheart Doll in the photos, and that’s what we’re aiming for! But do remember, darling, every handmade creation carries the unique touch of its maker. Your tension might be slightly different than mine, or you might choose a slightly different yarn. This means your Strawberry Sweetheart will have her own unique personality, and that’s part of the charm! Don't fret over tiny variations; embrace them – they make your doll truly one-of-a-kind.

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The Strawberry Sweetheart Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Oh, I just know you’re going to love stitching up this darling Strawberry Sweetheart Doll amigurumi! If you enjoy this free pattern, do pop over to Patricia Poltera’s Amigurumi Pattern Parlour for more exclusive PDF patterns and to support my work. It’s your wonderful support that allows me to keep sharing these free guides! Now, let’s get to crocheting!

Abbreviations (US Terms):

  • MR: Magic Ring
  • SC: Single Crochet
  • Inc: Increase (2 sc in one stitch)
  • Dec: Decrease (sc 2 stitches together)
  • Inv Dec: Invisible Decrease (preferred for amigurumi)
  • SL ST: Slip Stitch
  • FO: Fasten Off
  • CH: Chain
  • BLO: Back Loop Only
  • FLO: Front Loop Only
  • ( )* : Repeat instructions in parentheses the specified number of times.
  • [ ]: Total number of stitches in the round/row.

General Notes for All Parts:

  • Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
  • Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
  • Stuff firmly as you go, ensuring a smooth shape.

Head (Peach/Skin Tone Yarn)

  1. MR 6 SC [6]
  2. 6 Inc [12]
  3. (1 SC, Inc)*6 [18]
  4. (2 SC, Inc)*6 [24]
  5. (3 SC, Inc)*6 [30]
  6. (4 SC, Inc)*6 [36]
  7. (5 SC, Inc)*6 [42]
  8. (6 SC, Inc)*6 [48]
  9. (7 SC, Inc)*6 [54] 10-18. SC in each stitch around (9 rounds) [54]
  10. (7 SC, Dec)*6 [48]
  11. (6 SC, Dec)*6 [42]
  12. (5 SC, Dec)*6 [36]
  13. (4 SC, Dec)*6 [30]
  14. (3 SC, Dec)*6 [24] Start stuffing firmly, shaping as you go.
  15. (2 SC, Dec)*6 [18]
  16. (1 SC, Dec)*6 [12] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing, ensuring a smooth, firm head.

Hair (Red Yarn)

For the hair, we'll create individual curls and attach them. This gives that lovely voluminous look!

Curly Strands (make approximately 40-50, adjust as desired for fullness):

  • CH 25. SC in the 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (As you crochet, the chain will naturally curl). SL ST into the last SC to finish a strand.
  • Leave a short tail (approx. 4 inches) at the beginning and end of each strand for attaching.

Attaching Hair:

  • Using your tapestry needle, start by attaching the first row of curls around the center of the head (around Rounds 2-3 from the top). Loop and knot the ends on the inside of the head, or weave them in securely.
  • Continue attaching rows of curls, working outwards towards the crown, until the head is covered to about Round 16-18, or where the hat will naturally sit. Ensure good coverage. You can layer them slightly for fullness.

Body (Red Yarn)

  1. MR 6 SC [6]
  2. 6 Inc [12]
  3. (1 SC, Inc)*6 [18]
  4. (2 SC, Inc)*6 [24]
  5. (3 SC, Inc)*6 [30]
  6. (4 SC, Inc)*6 [36]
  7. (5 SC, Inc)*6 [42] 8-13. SC in each stitch around (6 rounds) [42]
  8. (5 SC, Dec)*6 [36] 15-16. SC in each stitch around (2 rounds) [36]
  9. (4 SC, Dec)*6 [30] 18-19. SC in each stitch around (2 rounds) [30]
  10. (3 SC, Dec)*6 [24]
  11. SC in each stitch around [24] Start stuffing firmly. Continue to stuff as you go.
  12. (2 SC, Dec)*6 [18]
  13. SC in each stitch around [18] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arms (Make 2) (Start with Peach/Skin Tone Yarn)

  1. MR 5 SC [5]
  2. 5 Inc [10] 3-9. SC in each stitch around (7 rounds) [10] Stuff the hand and lower arm lightly. Don't overstuff, as it can make arms stick out. Switch to Red Yarn 10-17. SC in each stitch around (8 rounds) [10] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top opening.

Legs (Make 2) (Start with Brown Yarn for Shoe Sole)

Shoe Sole (Brown Yarn):

  1. CH 5. SC in 2nd CH from hook, 2 SC, 3 SC in last CH. (Work down other side of CH): 2 SC, Inc in last CH [10]
  2. Inc, 2 SC, 3 Inc, 2 SC, 2 Inc [16]
  3. 1 SC, Inc, 2 SC, (1 SC, Inc)*3, 2 SC, (1 SC, Inc)*2 [22] SL ST to join. CH 1.

Shoe Top & Leg (Red Yarn):

  1. Switch to Red Yarn. SC in BLO around [22] 2-3. SC in each stitch around (2 rounds) [22]
  2. 5 SC, 6 Dec, 5 SC [16]
  3. 4 SC, 4 Dec, 4 SC [12] Stuff shoe firmly. Switch to Green Yarn
  4. SC in each stitch around [12] Switch to White Yarn
  5. SC in each stitch around [12] Switch to Green Yarn
  6. SC in each stitch around [12] Switch to White Yarn
  7. SC in each stitch around [12] Switch to Peach/Skin Tone Yarn 10-23. SC in each stitch around (14 rounds) [12] Continue stuffing as you go, firmly but not overly tight. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Hat (Light Pink Yarn)

  1. MR 6 SC [6]
  2. 6 Inc [12]
  3. (1 SC, Inc)*6 [18]
  4. (2 SC, Inc)*6 [24]
  5. (3 SC, Inc)*6 [30]
  6. (4 SC, Inc)*6 [36]
  7. (5 SC, Inc)*6 [42]
  8. (6 SC, Inc)*6 [48]
  9. (7 SC, Inc)*6 [54] 10-18. SC in each stitch around (9 rounds) [54]
  10. (8 SC, Inc)*6 [60] 20-22. SC in each stitch around (3 rounds) [60] FO, weave in end.

Strawberries for Hat (Make several) (Red Yarn)

  1. MR 4 SC [4]
  2. (1 SC, Inc)*2 [6]
  3. (2 SC, Inc)*2 [8]
  4. (1 SC, Dec)*2, 2 SC [6] Stuff lightly with fiberfill. Switch to Green Yarn (for stem/leaf top)
  5. SC in each stitch around [6] CH 2, SL ST into same stitch (forms small leaf). Repeat for a second small leaf. SL ST to join to round 5. FO, leaving a tail for sewing.

White Hat Bobbles (White Yarn)

  • Small Bobbles (make approx. 12-14, adjust as needed):
    • MR 6 SC [6]
    • (1 SC, Inc)*3 [9]
    • (1 SC, Dec)*3 [6]
    • Stuff lightly.
    • SL ST to close, FO, leaving a tail for sewing.

Dress (Red Yarn)

Bodice & Skirt (worked in one piece):

  1. CH 21. SL ST to first CH to form a ring. (Be careful not to twist) [20]
  2. CH 1, SC in each CH around [20] 3-5. SC in each stitch around (3 rounds) [20]
  3. (4 SC, Inc)*4 [24]
  4. SC in each stitch around [24]
  5. (5 SC, Inc)*4 [28]
  6. SC in each stitch around [28]
  7. (6 SC, Inc)*4 [32]
  8. SC in each stitch around [32]
  9. (7 SC, Inc)*4 [36] 13-16. SC in each stitch around (4 rounds) [36] FO, weave in ends.

Sleeves (Make 2) (Red Yarn):

  1. MR 6 SC [6]
  2. 6 Inc [12]
  3. SC in each stitch around [12]
  4. (2 SC, Dec)*3 [9] 5-10. SC in each stitch around (6 rounds) [9] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Apron (White Yarn)

Bib:

  1. CH 7. SC in 2nd CH from hook, 5 SC [6] 2-6. CH 1, turn, SC in each stitch across [6]
  2. CH 1, turn, Dec, 2 SC, Dec [4] FO.

Skirt:

  1. CH 17. SC in 2nd CH from hook, 15 SC [16] 2-5. CH 1, turn, SC in each stitch across [16] FO.

Ties (Make 2):

  1. CH 20. SL ST to attach to top corner of bib. SL ST down chain. FO.
  2. Repeat for other side of bib.

Apron Hearts (Make 3) (Green Yarn)

  1. MR 4 SC [4]
  2. (1 SC, Inc)*2 [6]
  3. (2 SC, Inc)*2 [8]
  4. SC in each stitch around [8]
  5. Dec 4 times [4]
  6. SL ST to join, FO, leaving a tail for sewing. (Fold in half and shape slightly to form a heart).

Embroidered Details

  • Eyes: Using black embroidery floss, embroider small oval eyes around Rounds 13-14 of the head, about 5-6 stitches apart. Add a small white highlight in the upper corner of each eye. Add tiny eyelashes.
  • Eyebrows: A single curved stitch in black embroidery floss, just above the eyes.
  • Nose: A tiny horizontal stitch in peach/skin tone yarn between the eyes, or a very small vertical stitch.
  • Mouth: A simple curved stitch in red embroidery floss below the nose, creating a gentle smile.
  • Cheeks: A small circle of pink embroidery floss (or a tiny felt circle) on each cheek, just below and outside the eyes.
  • Apron Details: Using green yarn, embroider the small green hearts onto the bib of the apron. Then, using red yarn, make the small "X" stitches below the hearts.
  • Shoe Laces: Using white embroidery floss, embroider criss-cross "laces" onto the front of the red shoes.

Assembly Instructions for Your Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

This is where your Strawberry Sweetheart truly comes to life! Take your time, use pins, and don't rush the sewing – it makes all the difference for a professional finish.

  1. Attach the Head to the Body: Using the tail left on the head (or body), center the head on top of the body. Pin it securely all around, ensuring it's straight and balanced. Using your tapestry needle and a whip stitch (or your preferred invisible seam), sew the head to the body, going through a stitch on the head and a stitch on the body for each connection. Pull tight for a secure join.
  2. Attach the Arms: Pin the arms to the sides of the body, just below the neck, so they hang naturally. Ensure they are evenly placed and facing the same direction. Stitch them securely to the body.
  3. Attach the Legs: Position the legs on the bottom of the body. You want them about 1-2 stitches apart at the center front to allow her to sit. Pin them firmly, ensuring they are even and facing forward. Sew them securely to the body.
  4. Dress Assembly: Slip the red dress bodice onto the doll. You can sew it to the body along the waist or neck if you want it permanently fixed, or leave it loose.
  5. Apron Assembly: Place the apron over the red dress. Pin the bib part onto the upper chest of the doll, and sew it in place with a few small, neat stitches. Tie the apron ties around the back of the doll's waist.
  6. Attach Hat Strawberries: Sew the small crocheted strawberries securely onto the light pink hat, distributing them evenly. Use the tails you left on the strawberries.
  7. Attach Hat Bobbles: Sew the small white bobbles around the brim of the hat, spacing them out for a decorative border.
  8. Position the Hat: Place the hat over the doll's head. You may want to gently tack it in place with a few small stitches to the head (especially if it's for a child) to ensure it stays put and covers the hair nicely.
  9. Final Touches: Double-check all sewn parts for security. Trim any remaining loose yarn ends. Give her a gentle reshape and fluff!

Tips & Tricks for Your Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

Making amigurumi is a journey, and I’ve picked up a few helpful hints along the way that I love to share.

Troubleshooting Common Crochet Challenges

  • Gaps in your fabric? This usually means your tension is a little loose. Try going down a hook size to create a denser fabric. Remember, tight stitches are your friend in amigurumi!
  • Stuffing showing through? Besides hook size, ensure you're stuffing firmly but evenly. Don't overstuff to the point of distorting the shape, but do fill every nook and cranny.
  • Wobbly Head? This happens! Ensure your neck join is very secure. You can also insert a small piece of pipe cleaner (folded with ends taped for safety) or a wooden dowel through the body into the head before stuffing completely for extra neck stability, especially for larger dolls.

Customization Corner

  • Yarn Play: Don't be afraid to experiment with yarn types! A fluffy chenille yarn could give her a super soft, cuddly feel (though it might obscure stitch definition). Different yarn weights will change the finished size.
  • Facial Expressions: While we've gone for a classic smile, you could give her a tiny embroidered blush, or a different mouth shape to convey another emotion. Small changes make a big difference!
  • Accessories: Want to add a tiny basket or a miniature watering can? Go for it! These little touches personalize your doll even further.

Gifting Your Handmade Masterpiece

  • Personal Touch: Always include a small handmade tag with care instructions. Mentioning that it's lovingly handmade adds so much value.
  • Care Instructions: Gently hand wash with mild soap and cold water, then air dry. Avoid harsh scrubbing or machine washing to preserve the shape and details.
  • Presentation: A simple gift box lined with tissue paper, tied with a pretty ribbon, elevates the presentation beautifully.

Frequently Asked Pattern & Finishing Questions for Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

Here are a few questions I often get asked about patterns like this one.

  • "My doll isn't the same size as the picture, why?" Oh, don't worry, dear! This is perfectly normal. Your finished doll's size will depend on your specific yarn weight, hook size, and personal crochet tension. If you want a larger or smaller doll, you can adjust your yarn and hook size proportionally.
  • "Can I use safety eyes instead of embroidering?" Yes, absolutely! While I've recommended embroidery for a truly authentic, classic look, you can certainly use 6mm or 8mm safety eyes. If you do, insert them firmly between rounds 13 and 14 of the head before closing and stuffing. Just remember safety eyes are generally not recommended for very young children.
  • "How do I make the hair super curly like the picture?" The trick is to make a sufficient number of chain stitches (e.g., CH 25), then single crochet back down the chain. The tight SC stitches on a chain will naturally cause the strand to curl. Don't pull too tightly when attaching, and you can gently finger-coil them after attachment.
  • "My doll feels a bit floppy. What should I do?" Ah, stuffing is key! Ensure you're packing the fiberfill in very firmly, using small pieces at a time and working them into every nook, especially the head and limbs. Use the back of your hook or a chopstick to really push the stuffing into place. A denser doll holds its shape much better.

A Final Word & Caring for Your Adorable Strawberry Sweetheart Doll

And there you have it, my precious crocheter! I truly hope you’ve enjoyed the journey of creating your very own Strawberry Sweetheart Doll. Seeing these little characters come to life through your hands is the greatest reward for me, and I cherish being a small part of your creative adventure. Remember, your continued engagement and support – whether it's sharing your finished makes, commenting on my posts, or visiting my Pattern Parlour for more delightful designs – make it possible for me to keep these detailed patterns freely available. Happy stitching, and may your hooks always be merry!

Warmly, Patricia Poltera

A Note on This Pattern's Use © 2025 Patricia Poltera. This free pattern is for your personal enjoyment and use. You're welcome to sell items made from this pattern; a designer credit to "Patricia Poltera (Patricia Poltera's Amigurumi Pattern Parlour)" is kindly appreciated. Please do not redistribute or sell the pattern itself. Thank you for respecting my work!

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