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An Introduction from Patricia to Your Wee Highland Coo
Hello, my dear crocheters! I’m Patricia Poltera, and I’m just so delighted to share this Wee Highland Coo amigurumi pattern with you all, completely free! There’s something incredibly heartwarming about these shaggy, gentle giants, and I’ve tried to capture all their charm in this little plush friend. Crafting these cozy creatures brings me such joy, and I know it will for you too. It's your wonderful enthusiasm, your kind words, and the ways you choose to support my work here in my Pattern Parlour that keep my crochet hooks merrily clicking away, allowing me to share these detailed patterns with you. So, thank you, from the bottom of my yarn stash!
Materials You'll Need for The Wee Highland Coo
Gathering your materials is half the fun! We want to make sure your Wee Highland Coo turns out as cuddly and charming as can be.
Yarn
- Worsted Weight (Aran) Yarn:
- Main Color (MC): Approx. 100g (200 yds) of warm reddish-brown (for body, head, main fringe). Look for a soft acrylic or cotton blend for a lovely, huggable finish. This is your main "cow" color!
- Contrast Color 1 (CC1): Approx. 20g (40 yds) of creamy off-white (for muzzle, horns).
- Contrast Color 2 (CC2): Approx. 15g (30 yds) of dark brown (for hooves/lower legs, tail tuft, nostril embroidery).
- Pro Tip: While the pattern is designed for worsted weight, you can use bulkier chenille yarn for an extra fuzzy coo, just be sure to adjust your hook size accordingly!
Hooks & Notions
- The Absolute Essentials:
- 3.5mm (E) Crochet Hook: This size is perfect for achieving a tight amigurumi fabric with worsted weight yarn, ensuring your stuffing won't peek through.
- Stuffing: High-quality polyester fiberfill. You'll need enough to make your coo plump and firm!
- Safety Eyes: 9mm or 10mm black safety eyes with washers.
- Yarn Needle: A sturdy needle with a blunt tip for sewing your pieces together.
- Stitch Markers: Locking stitch markers are a lifesaver for working in continuous rounds.
- Scissors: Sharp little snips for cutting your yarn.
- My 'Game Changer' Recommendations (Optional, but oh-so-helpful!):
- Measuring Tape: Handy for checking your gauge or the overall size as you go.
- Pins: T-pins or quilting pins are invaluable for holding pieces in place before you stitch them down, ensuring perfect alignment.
- Pet Slicker Brush: If you use acrylic yarn, a gentle brushing can give your coo a wonderfully fluffy, shaggy look, especially for the mane!
Skills Required & Techniques Demystified for The Wee Highland Coo
Don't worry if some of these terms sound new; I'll explain them simply! The beauty of amigurumi is that it builds on a few basic stitches.
- Magic Ring (MR): This creates a tight starting point for your amigurumi, eliminating the hole you might get with a traditional chain start. It's truly magical!
- Single Crochet (sc): The workhorse stitch of amigurumi! It creates a dense, firm fabric perfect for stuffing.
- Increase (inc): Working two single crochet stitches into one stitch from the previous round. This is how we make our pieces grow.
- Invisible Decrease (inv dec): This is my favorite way to decrease in amigurumi. It’s worked by inserting your hook into the front loop of the first stitch, then into the front loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull through both loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over, and pull through both loops. It creates a much neater, less noticeable decrease than a standard single crochet two together (sc2tog).
- Slip Stitch (sl st): Used to join rounds or to finish off a piece.
- Fasten Off (FO): Cutting your yarn and pulling the tail through the last loop to secure it.
- Working in Continuous Rounds: We won't be joining our rounds with slip stitches unless specifically instructed. This creates a seamless fabric without a seam line. Always use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round!
- Basic Embroidery: For the nostrils, we’ll use a simple straight stitch.
A Note on Photos & Your Unique Wee Highland Coo
Remember, handmade items, just like our wonderful selves, have unique quirks! The photos in this pattern show a finished Wee Highland Coo that I made, but yours might have slightly different characteristics, and that’s perfectly normal and part of its charm. Don't fret over tiny differences; embrace them! Each stitch you make adds to its personality.
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The Wee Highland Coo Amigurumi Pattern
Oh, I just know you’re going to love stitching up this darling Wee Highland Coo amigurumi! If you enjoy this free pattern, do pop over to Patricia Poltera’s Amigurumi Pattern Parlour for more exclusive PDF patterns and support that keeps these patterns coming. Now, let’s get to crocheting!
Abbreviations:
- MC = Main Color (Reddish-Brown)
- CC1 = Contrast Color 1 (Creamy Off-White)
- CC2 = Contrast Color 2 (Dark Brown)
- MR = Magic Ring
- sc = single crochet
- inc = increase (2 sc in one stitch)
- inv dec = invisible decrease
- sl st = slip stitch
- FO = fasten off
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- (...) = repeat instructions in parentheses the specified number of times
- [...] = total number of stitches in the round
Head (Start with MC)
Round 1: MR 6 sc [6]
Round 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
Round
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]
Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]
Round 9-16: sc in each st around (8 rounds) [48]
- Insert safety eyes between
- Rounds 13 and 14, approximately 7-8 stitches apart.
- Round 17: (6 sc, inv dec) x6 [42]
- Round 18: (5 sc, inv dec) x6 [36]
- Begin stuffing the head firmly. Continue to stuff as you go.
- Round 19: (4 sc, inv dec) x6 [30]
- Round 20: (3 sc, inv dec) x6 [24]
- Round 21: (2 sc, inv dec) x6 [18]
- Round 22: (sc, inv dec) x6 [12]
- Round 23: (inv dec) x6 [6] FO, leaving a long tail for closing. Thread the tail through the front loop of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in end.
Muzzle (Start with CC1)
Round 1: MR 6 sc [6]
Round 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Round 4: sc in each st around [18] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.
Horns (Make 2 - Start with CC1)
Round 1: MR 4 sc [4]
Round 2: (sc, inc) x2 [6]
Round 3: sc in each st around [6]
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x2 [8]
Round 5: sc in each st around [8] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff, or stuff very lightly if desired.
Ears (Make 2 - Start with MC)
Round 1: MR 6 sc [6]
Round 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Round 4-6: sc in each st around (3 rounds) [18]
Round 7: (sc, inv dec) x6 [12] Flatten the ear and sc through both layers to close the opening. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Body (Start with MC)
Round 1: MR 6 sc [6]
Round 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]
Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]
Round 9-17: sc in each st around (9 rounds) [48]
Round 18: (6 sc, inv dec) x6 [42]
Round 19: sc in each st around [42]
- Begin stuffing the body firmly.
- Round 20: (5 sc, inv dec) x6 [36]
- Round 21: sc in each st around [36]
- Round 22: (4 sc, inv dec) x6 [30]
- Round 23: sc in each st around [30]
- Round 24: (3 sc, inv dec) x6 [24] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing firmly.
Legs (Make 4 - Start with CC2)
Round 1: MR 6 sc [6]
Round 2: (inc) x6 [12]
Round 3: sc in each st around [12] Change to MC.
Round 4-6: sc in each st around (3 rounds) [12] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.
Fringe/Mane (Make 6-8 pieces - Start with MC)
This is where the magic happens for the shaggy look! You can make these by working a short chain and then crocheting into it. I like to use a combination of bobble stitches and chains for a really full, shaggy look.
For a simpler, but still effective fringe: Row 1: Chain 7. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st across. FO, leaving a short tail for tying. Repeat this 6-8 times. For more volume, you can make these longer or shorter, and adjust the number of pieces.
For a more textured fringe (bobble-like): Row 1: Chain 4. In 4th chain from hook, work 4 dc (double crochet) together (or a 4-dc bobble stitch). Sl st into the same stitch. FO, leaving a short tail. Repeat this for 6-8 pieces.
Tail (Start with MC)
Round 1: Chain 10. Round 2: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, then sc in each remaining chain. [9] FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. For the tail tuft: Cut several (approx. 10-15) 3-inch strands of CC2. Gather them together, fold in half, and tie securely to the end of the chain. You can trim and fray the ends for a shaggy look.
Assembly Instructions for Your Wee Highland Coo
This is where your little coo really takes shape! Take your time, use your pins, and enjoy watching your creation come to life.
- Attach the Muzzle: Pin the lightly stuffed muzzle (CC1) centrally on the lower part of the head, directly below and between the eyes. Using the long tail and your yarn needle, stitch it securely in place. Once attached, use your CC2 yarn and yarn needle to embroider two small vertical or horizontal lines for the nostrils onto the muzzle.
- Attach the Horns: Pin the two horns (CC1) on top of the head, slightly behind and to the outside of the eyes. Make sure they are angled slightly outwards. Stitch securely.
- Attach the Ears: Flatten each ear. Pin them to the sides of the head, just below the horns and slightly angled forward. Stitch securely in place.
- Attach the Fringe/Mane: This is the fun part! Take your fringe pieces. Using your yarn needle, thread the tails of your fringe pieces through the top of the head, just behind the muzzle and between the horns. You can create a full, shaggy mane by placing them close together or in rows. Once happy with placement, secure with a knot inside the head and trim tails, or weave them in. Feel free to trim and shape the fringe as you like!
- Attach the Head to the Body: This is the most crucial step for a nice, seamless join. Position the head centrally on top of the body. Use plenty of pins to hold it securely in place, ensuring the head is facing forward. Using the long tail from the head (or body if you left it there), stitch the head to the body using a mattress stitch or whip stitch. Make sure it's firmly attached and can support the head's weight. Add more stuffing if needed before fully closing the seam.
- Attach the Legs: Pin the four legs (CC2/MC) to the underside of the body. Position them evenly around the body, so the coo sits nicely. The front legs should be slightly forward and the back legs slightly back. Stitch securely.
- Attach the Tail: Pin the tail to the back of the body, centrally and at the lower part. Stitch securely.
Tips & Tricks for Your Wee Highland Coo
Here are a few of my favorite insights to make your amigurumi journey even smoother!
Troubleshooting Common Crochet Challenges
- Stuffing Showing Through? This means your stitches are too loose! Try going down a hook size. A dense fabric is key for amigurumi.
- Wonky Shapes? Always count your stitches at the end of every round! Even one missed stitch can throw off your shape. Also, ensure you're stuffing evenly and firmly. Don't be afraid to add more fiberfill than you think you need.
- "Holey" Magic Ring? When you pull your magic ring tight, make sure to give that tail a really good tug until the hole disappears.
Customization Corner
- Size It Up or Down: Want a mini coo or a jumbo coo? Use a thicker or thinner yarn with an appropriately sized hook. The pattern ratios will remain the same.
- Expressions: Change the size or placement of the safety eyes for a different look. You could even embroider sleeping eyes for an extra sleepy coo!
- Accessories: Add a tiny flower to the mane, a little bell around its neck, or a tiny crocheted scarf to personalize your coo.
Gifting Your Handmade Masterpiece
- Wash Care: Always include a little tag with care instructions! For acrylic yarn, a gentle hand wash with mild soap and air drying is usually best.
- Personal Touch: Consider embroidering the recipient's initial on one of the hooves, or adding a small, handwritten note about the care and love that went into making it. It makes the gift even more special!
Frequently Asked Pattern & Finishing Questions for The Wee Highland Coo
Here are a few common questions that might pop up while you're working on your charming coo!
Q: My Highland Coo's head is wobbly after attaching it. What went wrong? A: This usually means the head wasn't stuffed firmly enough, or the seam where you attached it to the body wasn't tight enough. Go back and add more stuffing if possible, then reinforce the seam with extra stitches, working through both the head and body. A really secure join makes all the difference!
Q: Can I use different types of yarn for the fringe? A: Absolutely! While I've suggested a simple method, you can experiment with brushed acrylic, mohair, or even fluffy chenille yarn for an extra shaggy look on the fringe. Just be mindful of how these yarns might shed.
Q: My Highland Coo doesn't sit quite right, it keeps tipping over. A: This often comes down to how the legs are attached and how firmly the body is stuffed. Ensure the legs are evenly spaced and stitched securely, especially at the bottom. Also, make sure the very bottom of the body is stuffed quite firmly to provide a stable base.
A Final Word & Caring for Your Adorable Wee Highland Coo
And there you have it, my dear! Your very own Wee Highland Coo, stitched with love and ready for cuddles. Seeing these little characters come to life through your hands is the greatest reward for me, and I cherish every photo you share. Remember, your continued engagement and support, whether through sharing my patterns, visiting my blog, or purchasing a PDF from my Pattern Parlour, make it possible for me to keep these detailed patterns freely available for our wonderful community. Happy stitching, and may your Wee Highland Coo bring you endless joy!