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An Introduction from Patricia to Your Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
Hello, my dear crochet enthusiasts! It's Patricia Poltera, and I am just so thrilled to share the Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon amigurumi pattern with you today. There's something utterly captivating about a tiny, sleeping dragon, all curled up and lost in sweet dreams, isn't there? This little one is designed to capture that very essence of peaceful slumber and mythical charm.
Materials You'll Need for Your Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
To create your own little Dreamer Dragon, you'll want to gather these bits and bobs. Remember, yarn choice can really change the personality of your amigurumi, so feel free to experiment, though I’ll list what seems to be used in the darling original!
Yarn
- Worsted Weight Yarn (Category 4)
- Terracotta/Rust Orange (Main Color - MC): Approx. 80-100 yards
- Medium Blue (Contrast Color A - CA): Approx. 20 yards (for small horns, frills, spinal plates, nostril embroidery)
- Light Grey (Contrast Color B - CB): Approx. 10 yards (for larger horns)
- Small amount of Dark Brown or Black embroidery floss/thin yarn (for eyes)
Hooks & Notions
The Absolute Essentials:
- Crochet Hook: 3.5mm (E-4) or a size appropriate for your yarn to create tight stitches.
- Polyester Fiberfill Stuffing: For giving your dragon its cuddly shape.
- Yarn Needle: For weaving in ends and assembling.
- Scissors: Sharp and ready!
My 'Game Changer' Recommendations (Optional, but oh-so-helpful!):
- Stitch Markers: Absolutely invaluable for keeping track of the beginning of your rounds, especially when working in a spiral. Prevents so many headaches!
- Locking Stitch Markers: Great for temporarily holding pieces together during assembly.
- Embroidery Needle: A finer needle can be useful for the detailed eye embroidery.
- Forceps or a Stuffing Stick (like a chopstick): Helps to get stuffing into smaller parts like the tail and horns evenly.
Skills Required & Techniques Demystified for Your Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
This pattern is best suited for those with some amigurumi experience, leaning towards an Intermediate level due to the shaping and assembly of small parts. But don't you worry, I'll explain everything as clearly as I can!
Key Techniques You'll Use:
- Magic Ring (MR): The classic start for most amigurumi, creating a neat, closed beginning.
- Single Crochet (sc): The star stitch of amigurumi!
- Increase (inc): Working two stitches into one stitch to make your piece grow.
- Invisible Decrease (dec): Crucial for amigurumi, this method makes decreases neat and less noticeable. Typically, this involves inserting your hook into the front loops only of the next two stitches, then completing a single crochet.
- Working in a Continuous Spiral: Most amigurumi is worked this way, without joining rounds, which is why stitch markers are your best friend.
- Basic Embroidery: For the sleepy eyes and nostrils.
- Assembly: Attaching all the cute little parts together securely.
Abbreviations (US Crochet Terms):
- MR: Magic Ring
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sl st: slip stitch
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- inc: increase (2 sc in the next st)
- dec: invisible decrease (sc 2 sts together using front loops only)
- FLO: front loop only
- BLO: back loop only
- MC: Main Color (Terracotta/Rust Orange)
- CA: Contrast Color A (Medium Blue)
- CB: Contrast Color B (Light Grey)
- Rnd(s): Round(s)
- [...] ... times: repeat instructions in brackets the number of times specified
- (...): indicates the total number of stitches at the end of the round
A Note on Photos & Your Unique Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
The darling dragon that inspired this pattern is a wonderful example, and we're aiming to create a close sibling! Remember, every handmade amigurumi has its own little spark of personality. Tiny variations in stitch tension, stuffing firmness, or feature placement simply add to its unique charm. Embrace these differences – they make your dragon truly yours!
Wonderful! The full pattern instructions await you on the next page – let the crafting begin!
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The Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon Amigurumi Pattern
A Little Tip for My Fellow Bloggers: To make these round markers truly sing on your beautiful blogs, feel free to use your website editor's tools to add a splash of your favorite color or adjust the text size once you've pasted in the pattern! It’s a lovely way to personalize the look.
Important Notes Before You Start:
- Work in continuous spiral rounds unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
- Stuff firmly as you go, especially the head and body, to achieve the desired shape.
- The exact placement of features can be adjusted slightly to your preference, using the photos as a guide.
Head and Body (Worked as one piece with MC - Terracotta/Rust Orange)
- The shaping of the body is designed to encourage a natural curl.
- Start at the top of the head.
Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] six times. (18)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] six times. (24)
Rnd 5:
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] six times. (36)
Rnd 7: [Sc 5, inc] six times. (42)
Rnd 8-14: Sc in each st around. (42) (7 rounds)
This forms the main part of the head. Now we'll begin shaping for the snout area and transitioning to the body.
Rnd 15: Sc 14, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 20. (46) (These increases shape the top of the snout) Rnd 16: Sc 14, sc 10 in FLO (this creates a ridge for the snout), sc 22. (46)
Rnd 17-18: Sc in each st around. (46) (2 rounds)
Begin decreases for the underside of the head/neck.
Rnd 19: Sc 15, dec, dec, dec, dec, sc 20. (42)
Rnd 20: [Sc 5, dec] six times. (36)
Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. (36)
Start increasing for the body. The goal is to create a round, curled form.
Rnd 22: [Sc 5, inc] six times. (42)
Rnd 23: [Sc 6, inc] six times. (48)
Rnd 24: [Sc 7, inc] six times. (54)
Rnd 25-35: Sc in each st around. (54) (11 rounds)
Begin shaping the curled end of the body. Stuff the head and body firmly as you go, ensuring the head is well-shaped. Continue stuffing as you close the body.
Rnd 36: [Sc 7, dec] six times. (48)
Rnd 37: Sc in each st around. (48)
Rnd 38: [Sc 6, dec] six times. (42)
Rnd 39: Sc in each st around. (42)
Rnd 40: [Sc 5, dec] six times. (36)
Rnd 41: [Sc 4, dec] six times. (30)
Rnd 42: [Sc 3, dec] six times. (24)
Rnd 43: [Sc 2, dec] six times. (18) Ensure stuffing is complete and firm, shaping the curl.
Rnd 44: [Sc 1, dec] six times. (12)
Rnd 45: Dec six times. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close the hole. Weave in the end securely.
Arms (Make 2 with MC - Terracotta/Rust Orange)
Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a MR. (6)
Rnd 2: [Sc 1, inc] three times. (9)
Rnd 3-4: Sc in each st around. (9) (2 rounds)
Rnd 5: [Sc 1, dec] three times. (6)
Rnd 6-7: Sc in each st around. (6) (2 rounds) Lightly stuff the paw end if desired, leave the top mostly unstuffed for easier attachment. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Tail (With MC - Terracotta/Rust Orange)
Rnd 1: Start 4 sc in a MR. (4)
Rnd 2: [Sc 1, inc] two times. (6)
Rnd 3: [Sc 2, inc] two times. (8)
Rnd 4: [Sc 3, inc] two times. (10)
Rnd 5-10: Sc in each st around. (10) (6 rounds) Begin to lightly stuff the tail as you go. Do not overstuff, as it needs to curve.
Rnd 11: [Sc 3, dec] two times. (8)
Rnd 12-15: Sc in each st around. (8) (4 rounds)
Rnd 16: [Sc 2, dec] two times. (6)
Rnd 17-19: Sc in each st around. (6) (3 rounds)
To create the tail spade/flange:
Rnd 20: Working in the FLO for this round: Ch 1, sl st into first st, [ch 2, dc in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st] two times. This creates two points. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing the tail lightly.
Wings (Make 2 with MC - Terracotta/Rust Orange)
Wings are worked flat in rows. Ch 7. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6. Ch 1, turn. (6) Row 2: Sc 6. Ch 1, turn. (6) Row 3: Dec, sc 2, dec. Ch 1, turn. (4) Row 4: Sc 4. Ch 1, turn. (4) Row 5: Dec two times. Ch 1, turn. (2) Row 6: Sc 2. Ch 1, turn. (2) Row 7: Dec. (1) Do not fasten off. Now, crochet a border around the wing to give it a cleaner edge and the scalloped look. Border: Ch 1, work sc evenly around the entire edge of the wing. To create points/scallops: At the "corners" or desired points (approx. 3 along the wider edge), work [sc 1, ch 2, sc 1] into the same stitch or space. Sl st to the first sc of the border to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Large Horns (Back Set - Make 2 with CB - Light Grey)
Rnd 1: Start 4 sc in a MR. (4)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (4)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] two times. (6)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (6)
Rnd 5: [Sc 2, inc] two times. (8) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly/firmly to hold shape.
Small Horns (Front Set - Make 2 with CA - Medium Blue)
Rnd 1: Start 3 sc in a MR. (3)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (3)
Rnd 3: Inc in each st around. (6)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (6) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly if needed, or they may hold shape if crocheted tightly.
Ear/Side Frills (Make 2 with CA - Medium Blue)
These are small, leaf-like shapes. Ch 5. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook: Sl st, sc, hdc, (sc, ch1, sl st) in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Spinal Plates/Frills (Make approx. 5-7 with CA - Medium Blue)
These are tiny triangles. Ch 3. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook: Sc 1, (sc, ch1, sl st) in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing each one. The number can be adjusted to fit your dragon's back.
Assembly Instructions for Your Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
This is where your little dragon truly comes to life! Pin pieces in place before sewing to ensure you're happy with their position. Use the provided image as your primary guide for placement.
- Head/Body Shape: Gently manipulate the stuffed head and body to enhance the curled posture. The decreases should naturally help it curve.
- Arms: Sew the open end of each arm to the "chest" area of the dragon, positioning them so they look like they are tucked into the curl. Refer to the image for exact placement – they are quite central and close together.
- Tail: Sew the tail to the body so it wraps around the front, with the spade tip visible and adding to the curled-up look. You might need a few tacking stitches along the length of the tail to keep it securely curled against the body.
- Wings: Sew the straight edge of each wing to the upper back, ensuring they are symmetrical. They should be positioned as if neatly folded down.
- Large Horns (Grey): Sew the two larger grey horns to the top of the head, slightly towards the back, and spaced a little apart.
- Small Horns (Blue): Sew the two smaller blue horns just in front of and slightly more central than the grey horns.
- Ear/Side Frills (Blue): Sew one frill to each side of the head, near the base of the horns, pointing slightly backwards/downwards.
- Spinal Plates/Frills (Blue): Sew these tiny plates in a line down the center of the dragon's back, starting from the base of the head and continuing down the spine. Space them evenly.
- Facial Features:
- Eyes: Using dark brown or black embroidery floss/yarn, embroider the closed, sleepy eyes. They are simple crescent shapes. Position them on the front of the face, below the front horns.
- Nostrils: Using the medium blue yarn (CA), make two small vertical stitches for nostrils on the snout area, just above the "ridge" created in Rnd 16 of the head.
Pro Tip: When attaching parts, try to sew through the stitches of both pieces rather than just the surface. This creates a much stronger and neater join. Take your time with this stage; it makes all the difference!
Tips & Tricks for Your Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
Troubleshooting Common Crochet Challenges
- Holes in Amigurumi: If you see stuffing peeking through, your stitches might be too loose. Try going down a hook size or tightening your tension. Using the invisible decrease method also helps keep the fabric tight.
- Parts Not Staying Put: Pin everything securely before sewing! For pieces like the tail that need to hold a curve against the body, don't be afraid to use a few extra hidden stitches to tack them down along their length.
- Uneven Stuffing: Stuff in small increments, pushing it gently into all the nooks and crannies. For the curled body, focus on getting enough stuffing to support the shape without making it too stiff to pose.
Customization Corner
- Color Magic: Imagine this little dragon in pastel shades for a baby, or vibrant jewel tones for a more fantastical look! You could even make a rainbow-striped dragon.
- Texture Play: Consider a fluffy yarn for accents like the spinal plates or tail tip for a different sensory experience, though this will alter the look from the original.
- Add Sparkle: A strand of metallic embroidery floss carried along with your yarn for the horns or spinal plates could add a subtle magical glint.
Gifting Your Handmade Masterpiece
- Presentation: Nestling your finished dragon in a small basket or box with some soft tissue paper makes for a beautiful gift.
- Care Instructions: Include a little note suggesting gentle spot cleaning only, as amigurumi typically doesn't fare well in washing machines.
- Story Time: If gifting to a child, why not write a tiny story about your little Dreamer Dragon to go along with it? It adds such a personal touch.
Frequently Asked Pattern & Finishing Questions for Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
- Q1: My dragon isn't curling as much as the picture. What can I do?
- A: This can be due to a few things, my dear! Ensure you've stuffed it firmly enough to hold a shape, but not so much that it becomes rigid. When attaching the tail, really use its placement to encourage and secure that frontal curl against the body. You can also gently sculpt it with your hands once fully assembled. Sometimes, a few extra strategically placed stitches between the tail and body can work wonders.
- Q2: The small horns and frills are tricky to sew on neatly. Any tips?
- A: They are indeed fiddly bits! Use plenty of pins to hold them in the exact spot. For sewing, use a matching yarn tail and make your stitches small and as invisible as possible, going under loops on the main body and through the base stitches of the small part. Sometimes, sewing just inside the last round of the piece (rather than through the very edge) can help it sit more flush. Patience is key here!
- Q3: Can I make this dragon bigger or smaller?
- A: Absolutely! The easiest way to adjust the size is by changing your yarn weight and hook size. For a larger dragon, use a thicker yarn (like bulky) and a correspondingly larger hook. For a smaller one, try a finer yarn (like sport or fingering weight) and a smaller hook. Just remember your stitch tension will need to be tight enough to prevent stuffing from showing.
- Q4: How do I make the eye embroidery look so smooth and crescent-shaped?
- A: I recommend using embroidery floss (separate the strands if it's 6-strand floss, using 2 or 3 strands). Sketch the shape very lightly with a disappearing ink fabric pen first if you're unsure. Use satin stitch or a series of closely packed straight stitches to fill the crescent shape. Try to make your stitches enter and exit the fabric at the same points on the top and bottom of the crescent to keep the edges neat.
A Final Word & Caring for Your Adorable Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon
And there you have it, your very own Curled-Up Dreamer Dragon! I truly hope you've enjoyed bringing this little one to life as much as I enjoyed envisioning the pattern for you. Each stitch is a little bit of magic, isn't it? Seeing these little characters come to life through your hands is the greatest reward.
Remember, your continued engagement and support for patterns like these make it possible for me to keep these detailed patterns freely available for everyone to enjoy. So, a heartfelt thank you! Take good care of your sleepy dragon; a gentle spot clean is best to keep it looking pristine. Happy stitching, and may your days be filled with cozy crochet moments!