Hello, my dear crocheter! Patricia Poltera here, and I'm simply bubbling with excitement to share this whimsical Little Azure Dragon pattern with you. There's something truly magical about bringing a mythical creature to life with just a hook and some yarn, and this little one, with its cheerful gaze and vibrant wings, has captured my heart completely. I've poured my expertise into crafting every detail, ensuring perfect proportions and a truly joyful expression. Creating this dragon reminded me of sunny afternoons spent dreaming of fantastical lands, and I hope it brings a touch of that wonder into your crafting space. Your enthusiasm and support by visiting, sharing, or even just leaving a kind comment truly keep my hooks clicking and allow me to share these detailed patterns freely with our wonderful community. Thank you, from the bottom of my yarn stash!
Materials You'll Need for Your Little Azure Dragon
Creating our delightful dragon begins with gathering just the right materials. The choices we make here truly enhance the finished piece, giving it that special handmade charm and durability.
Yarn
For our Little Azure Dragon, I highly recommend using a smooth, durable worsted-weight acrylic or cotton blend yarn. This provides excellent stitch definition, which is crucial for capturing the crisp lines of our dragon's features, and it holds its shape beautifully.
Main Color (MC): Approximately 100g of Light Blue (Robin's Egg Blue shade works wonderfully!)
Belly/Wing Accent Color (AC1): Approximately 30g of Lime Green
Spikes/Paw/Tail Accent Color (AC2): Approximately 20g of Dark Purple
Wing Detail Color (AC3): Small amount of a brighter Teal or Turquoise (for wing lines)
Facial Features: Small amount of Black embroidery floss/yarn for the smile, and a tiny bit of Pink embroidery floss/yarn for the rosy cheeks.
Hooks & Notions
The right tools are your best friends in amigurumi, ensuring consistent tension and a polished finish.
Absolute Essentials:
Crochet Hook: A 3.0mm (D/3) or 3.25mm (E/4) hook. The smaller hook creates a dense fabric essential for amigurumi, preventing stuffing from showing through. If you crochet loosely, lean towards the smaller size.
Safety Eyes: Two 15mm or 16mm black safety eyes. The large size is key to our dragon's endearing expression!
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill (hypoallergenic if possible). You'll need a generous amount to give our dragon its firm, cuddly shape.
Yarn Needle: A blunt-tipped needle for weaving in ends and assembling pieces.
Stitch Marker: A locking stitch marker or a scrap piece of yarn to mark the beginning of your rounds.
My 'Game Changer' Recommendations:
Fabric Glue/Clear Nail Polish: A tiny dot on the back of your safety eye posts before securing the washer can offer extra security, especially for cherished toys.
Tapestry Needle with a Sharper Point: While optional, a slightly sharper tapestry needle can be helpful for intricate facial embroidery, especially for the smile and cheek details.
Pins: T-pins or quilting pins are invaluable for positioning pieces before sewing, ensuring perfect symmetry for those wings and limbs on our dragon.
Skills Required & Techniques Demystified for Your Little Azure Dragon
This pattern uses standard amigurumi techniques, but I've added a few pointers specific to our dragon's unique features. Don't worry, I'm here to guide you every step of the way!
Essential Crochet Skills:
Magic Ring (MR)
Single Crochet (sc)
Increase (inc)
Invisible Decrease (invdec) - This creates a much neater seam for decreases, crucial for smooth shaping on our dragon's head and body.
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Fasten Off (FO)
Working in continuous rounds (most common in amigurumi)
Basic sewing skills for assembly
Techniques Demystified for Your Little Azure Dragon:
Invisible Decrease (invdec): For our dragon's head and body, maintaining a smooth, perfectly round shape is paramount. The invisible decrease helps achieve this by making your decreases virtually disappear, creating a more seamless curve. To perform, insert your hook into the front loop only of the next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop only of the stitch after that (you'll have three loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull through both front loops (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both remaining loops. Voila!
Color Changes: Our dragon has a lovely lime green belly and two distinct wing colors. For a clean color change mid-round (like on the belly), complete the last single crochet of the old color up to the last yarn over. Then, yarn over with your new color and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook. This "locks" the new color in neatly.
Working Flat for Spikes/Wings: The head spikes and wings are worked in rows. Remember to chain 1 (or chain 2 for hdc/dc if used) and turn at the end of each row unless otherwise specified, ensuring neat, straight edges. For the spikes, working them firmly and stuffing them well will give them that crisp, pointed shape. For the wings, we'll create two identical panels and join them for stability and a slightly thicker feel.
Crochet Abbreviations Used:
MR: Magic Ring
st(s): stitch(es)
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
inc: increase (2 sc in one st)
invdec: invisible decrease (single crochet 2 together, working in front loops only)
sl st: slip stitch
FO: fasten off
(X): The number in parentheses at the end of a round indicates the total stitch count for that round.
A Note on Photos & Your Unique Little Azure Dragon
Every handmade amigurumi has its own special character, just like our Little Azure Dragon! The photos in this pattern are a guide, but your finished dragon will have its own unique charm based on your tension, yarn, and even how you position the safety eyes. Embrace these slight variations – they're what make your creation truly one-of-a-kind. Don't be afraid to adjust eye placement slightly or embroider the smile in a way that truly captures your dragon's personality.
Onwards, creative spirit, let's bring our Little Azure Dragon to life! Full pattern next.
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The Little Azure Dragon Amigurumi Pattern
Remember to use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round and move it up as you go! Work tightly to ensure no stuffing shows through.
Head (MC: Light Blue)
Work in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
Rnd 9: (Sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
Rnd 10-18: Sc in each st around. (54) (9 rounds)
Insert safety eyes between Rnd 14 and Rnd 15, approximately 9-10 stitches apart. Ensure they are centered on the front of the head. Begin stuffing firmly, shaping as you go.
Rnd 19: (Sc 7, invdec) x 6. (48)
Rnd 20: (Sc 6, invdec) x 6. (42)
Rnd 21: (Sc 5, invdec) x 6. (36)
Rnd 22: (Sc 4, invdec) x 6. (30)
Rnd 23: (Sc 3, invdec) x 6. (24)
Continue stuffing firmly.
Rnd 24: (Sc 2, invdec) x 6. (18)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing, ensuring a firm, round shape. Close the opening by weaving the tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pulling tight. Secure and weave in end.
Body (MC: Light Blue, AC1: Lime Green)
Start with MC (Light Blue). Work in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
Rnd 9-11: Sc in each st around. (48) (3 rounds)
Rnd 12: Sc 21, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 6, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 21. (48)
Rnd 13: Sc 20, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 8, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 20. (48)
Rnd 14: Sc 19, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 10, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 19. (48)
Rnd 15: Sc 18, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 12, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 18. (48)
Rnd 16: Sc 18, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 12, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 18. (48)
Rnd 17: Sc 19, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 10, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 19. (48)
Rnd 18: Sc 20, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 8, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 20. (48)
Rnd 19: Sc 21, change to AC1 (Lime Green), sc 6, change to MC (Light Blue), sc 21. (48)
Rnd 20: Sc in each st around with MC (Light Blue). (48)
Rnd 21: (Sc 6, invdec) x 6. (42)
Rnd 22: (Sc 5, invdec) x 6. (36)
Rnd 23: (Sc 4, invdec) x 6. (30)
Begin stuffing the body firmly, shaping as you go.
Rnd 24: (Sc 3, invdec) x 6. (24)
Rnd 25: (Sc 2, invdec) x 6. (18)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing firmly.
Head Spikes (Make 7 - AC2: Dark Purple)
Work in rows.
Row 1: Ch 2, sc 2 in 2nd ch from hook. (2)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc in each st. (4)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (4)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, (sc 1, inc) x 2. (6)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (6)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, (sc 2, invdec) x 2. (4) (or sc 2, invdec, sc 2 if invdec is too tricky in Row 6)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, invdec x 2. (2)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, invdec. (1)
FO, leaving a short tail. Flatten the spike and sew the short edges together with the tail, then weave in. (You can also make them by starting with MR, sc 4, sc 4, invdec, invdec and flatten. The key is a pointed shape.)
Wings (Make 2 - AC1: Lime Green, AC3: Teal/Turquoise)
Start with AC1 (Lime Green). Work in rows.
Wing Panel A (Inner Wing):
Row 1: Ch 2, sc 2 in 2nd ch from hook. (2)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc in each st. (4)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (4)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, (sc 1, inc) x 2. (6)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (6)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, (sc 2, inc) x 2. (8)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (8)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, (sc 3, inc) x 2. (10)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (10)
Row 10: Ch 1, turn, (sc 4, inc) x 2. (12)
Row 11: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (12)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn, sc 12. (12)
Row 13: Ch 1, turn, invdec, sc 8, invdec. (10)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc 10. (10)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn, invdec, sc 6, invdec. (8)
Row 16: Ch 1, turn, sc 8. (8)
Row 17: Ch 1, turn, invdec, sc 4, invdec. (6)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc 6. (6)
Row 19: Ch 1, turn, invdec, sc 2, invdec. (4)
Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc 4. (4)
Row 21: Ch 1, turn, invdec x 2. (2)
Row 22: Ch 1, turn, invdec. (1)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Make a second identical panel for each wing. With AC3 (Teal/Turquoise), surface slip stitch lines onto the visible side of one panel to create the 'veins' of the wing, referencing the original image for placement.
Place the two identical panels together, wrong sides facing. Using the long tail from one panel and a whip stitch (or sc around the edge), sew the two panels together, enclosing any surface stitches. Do not stuff, keep flat. Leave a long tail for sewing to the body.
Arms (Make 2 - MC: Light Blue, AC2: Dark Purple)
Start with MC (Light Blue). Work in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a MR. (6)
Rnd 2: (Sc 1, inc) x 3. (9)
Rnd 3-7: Sc in each st around. (9) (5 rounds)
Change to AC2 (Dark Purple).
Rnd 8-9: Sc in each st around. (9) (2 rounds)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.
Legs (Make 2 - MC: Light Blue, AC2: Dark Purple)
Start with MC (Light Blue). Work in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: Start 6 sc in a MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
Rnd 4-7: Sc in each st around. (18) (4 rounds)
Change to AC2 (Dark Purple).
Rnd 8-10: Sc in each st around. (18) (3 rounds)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly, especially the foot area.
Tail (MC: Light Blue, AC2: Dark Purple)
Start with MC (Light Blue). Work in continuous rounds.
Rnd 1: Start 4 sc in a MR. (4)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. (4)
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) x 2. (6)
Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. (6)
Rnd 5: (Sc 2, inc) x 2. (8)
Rnd 6-7: Sc in each st around. (8) (2 rounds)
Rnd 8: (Sc 3, inc) x 2. (10)
Rnd 9-10: Sc in each st around. (10) (2 rounds)
Rnd 11: (Sc 4, inc) x 2. (12)
Rnd 12-13: Sc in each st around. (12) (2 rounds)
Stuff lightly as you go.
Rnd 14: Invdec, sc 10. (11)
Rnd 15: Invdec, sc 9. (10)
Rnd 16: Invdec, sc 8. (9)
Rnd 17: Invdec, sc 7. (8)
Rnd 18: Invdec, sc 6. (7)
Rnd 19: Invdec, sc 5. (6)
Rnd 20: Invdec, sc 4. (5)
Rnd 21: Invdec, sc 3. (4)
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing lightly.
Tail Spikes (Make 3 - AC2: Dark Purple)
Follow instructions for Head Spikes, but make slightly smaller if desired (e.g., stopping at Row 5 or 6 and decreasing from there).
Assembly Instructions for Your Little Azure Dragon
This is where your Little Azure Dragon truly comes to life! Take your time, pin everything in place before sewing, and don't be afraid to adjust until it looks just right.
Attach the Head to the Body: Position the head onto the body, ensuring the face (where the eyes are) is pointing forward. The neck opening of the head should sit directly on top of the body's opening. Pin securely all around. Using the long tail from the head (or a new piece of yarn if needed), sew the head to the body with a whip stitch or mattress stitch, going through a stitch on the head and then a corresponding stitch on the body. Weave in ends securely.
Embroider Facial Details:
Smile: Using black embroidery floss, embroider a gentle, upward-curving smile directly below and between the safety eyes. Make it simple and sweet.
Cheeks: With pink embroidery floss (or a touch of dry blush applied with a soft brush), create small, rosy circles on each cheek, just to the outside of the smile.
Attach Head Spikes: Arrange the 7 dark purple head spikes around the top and back of the head, referencing the image. There will be one central spike, then two on each side, followed by two more towards the back. Pin them evenly spaced and sew securely in place.
Attach Arms: Pin the arms to the sides of the body, just below the neck join, ensuring they point slightly forward. Sew firmly.
Attach Legs: Pin the legs to the bottom of the body, so the dragon can sit upright. Make sure they are symmetrical and sewn on flat to provide a stable base.
Attach Tail: Position the tail at the center back of the body, just above where the legs are attached. The tail should angle slightly downward and curve naturally. Sew firmly.
Attach Tail Spikes: Sew the 3 dark purple tail spikes along the top of the tail, evenly spaced, tapering down to the tip.
Attach Wings: Pin the wings to the upper back of the body, just behind the arms. Ensure they are symmetrical and angle slightly upwards, giving your dragon a sense of flight! Sew securely along the attached edge. For extra support, you can take a few extra stitches through the body if needed to ensure they stand upright.
Weave in all remaining loose ends securely. Take a step back and admire your utterly adorable Little Azure Dragon!
Tips & Tricks for Your Little Azure Dragon
Here are a few of my favorite insights to make your Little Azure Dragon even more special and to troubleshoot any little bumps along the way!
Troubleshooting Your Little Azure Dragon
Wobbly Head? If your dragon's head feels a bit wobbly, it likely needs more stuffing, especially in the neck area. Use the end of your hook or a dowel to push small bits of fiberfill up into the neck cavity for extra firmness before closing the head opening and during attachment to the body.
Gaps in Color Changes? If you see small gaps where you changed colors on the belly, gently tug on the yarn tails from the color change on the inside of the piece. This often snugs up the stitches. For future projects, ensure your tension is extra consistent when changing colors.
Spikes/Wings Not Standing Upright? Ensure your head spikes are firmly stuffed and sewn down securely at their base. For the wings, if they're flopping, try taking a few extra anchor stitches through the back of the body when attaching them, or if you made them double-layered, a tiny bit of firm stuffing between the layers can add stability.
Customization Corner for Your Little Azure Dragon
Eye Appeal: Experiment with different sized or colored safety eyes! A slightly smaller eye can give a more mature look, while a larger eye, perhaps with a custom felt backing for a colored iris, can make it even more cartoonish and cute.
Shades of Dragon: Don't limit yourself to blue and green! Imagine this little dragon in warm reds and oranges for a fire dragon, or deep blues and silvers for an ice dragon. The pattern is a canvas for your creativity.
Little Details: Consider adding tiny embroidered scales to the body with matching yarn for a subtle texture, or perhaps a little fiery breath emerging from its mouth using felt or needle felting!
Gifting Your Little Azure Dragon
Personal Touch: Before gifting, consider adding a small, embroidered initial on one of the dragon's feet or under a wing to truly personalize it for the recipient.
Care Instructions: Always include a small tag with care instructions! For acrylic yarn, a gentle hand wash with mild soap and air dry is usually best. This shows you care about the longevity of your handmade gift.
Presentation Matters: A simple ribbon around its neck or nestled in a small basket with some crinkled paper makes for a beautiful presentation. This little dragon is sure to be a treasured gift!
Frequently Asked Pattern & Finishing Questions for Little Azure Dragon
Q: My dragon's head seems a bit too heavy for its body. What can I do? A: This often happens if the head is overstuffed compared to the body, or if the body isn't stuffed firmly enough. Ensure your body is very firmly stuffed, especially towards the top where it joins the head. You can also sew the head on with extra care, going through a few more stitches for a more secure attachment point. A tiny bit of poly-pellets in the very bottom of the body can also add weight for stability, but use them cautiously and secure them safely in a fabric pouch if using for a child's toy.
Q: How can I ensure the color change for the belly is perfectly straight? A: Achieving a perfectly straight line with color changes in continuous rounds can be tricky due to the spiral nature of amigurumi. The key is consistent tension. When you make the color change, ensure the new yarn is pulled snug but not tight. You can also try adding a "jogless join" technique (searching for this term will give you specific tutorial options) which involves a slip stitch at the end of the last round of the old color before changing to the new color, helping to mitigate the spiral effect. However, for a belly like this, a slight 'jog' is often barely noticeable once stuffed and assembled.
Q: My spikes look a bit flimsy. How can I make them stand up better? A: The firmness of your spikes depends heavily on your tension and stuffing! Crochet them very tightly. After sewing the edges together to form the 3D shape, you can add a tiny bit of fiberfill into the point, using the end of your hook to really pack it in. For extra stiffness, some crocheters insert a small, cut piece of felt or plastic canvas inside before sewing completely shut, but ensure it's small enough not to poke through and is securely enclosed.
A Final Word & Caring for Your Adorable Little Azure Dragon
And there you have it, my dear friends! Your very own Little Azure Dragon, brought to life through your skillful hands and a whole lot of love. Seeing your Little Azure Dragon come to life, complete with its cheerful smile and vibrant wings, is the greatest reward for me as a designer. Each stitch, each round, builds not just a toy, but a cherished companion, full of personality and charm. Your engagement and willingness to share your creations make these free, detailed patterns possible, allowing me to continue exploring new designs and sharing them with our wonderful crafting community. Happy stitching, and may your dragon bring endless joy!